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PostPosted: 15 Nov 2003, 09:30 
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Joined: 21 Oct 2002, 10:38
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I know there are things you can mix with the water when you put on decals to make them apply better, what are they?

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PostPosted: 15 Nov 2003, 13:02 
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Joined: 05 Oct 2002, 14:22
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Location: Missouri
go to a hobby shop and get some "decal setting solution" ( I think it is mostly vinagar) it softens the decal and lets air seep through them letting them conform to the model. After the decal softens, use the end of a Q-tip, or a soft small sponge, to jam the decal down into panel lines and such. but FIRST you should give the model a good clear gloss coat then a few days after the decals have dried follow up with another gloss coat, the decals will have the same reflectance as the model and will look like they are PAINT, then use a dull coat if you want. If you want I can probly take a few close up pics of how good this really can look and why it's worth the extra effort and cost of those gloss coats.

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PostPosted: 15 Nov 2003, 16:31 
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Joined: 21 Oct 2002, 10:38
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that's alright. thanks for the advice I'm going to give it a shot I realy think this will help thanks!

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PostPosted: 16 Nov 2003, 22:09 
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Joined: 02 Aug 2002, 14:24
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There are a number of decal setting and decal solvent solutions available. Setting solution is what you use to place the decal and move it into position, and a solvent solution is what you use, after its in position, to soften it so it conforms over rivets and panel lines.

Setting solutions:

Testors' "Decal set"

Microscale Industries' "Micro Set" 1 oz clear plastic bottle with BLUE lettering.

Setting/solvent solution:

AeroMaster "Aero Set II" This is a cross between the two. It is a strong acetic acid (vinegar) solution that actually does soften the decals, but slowly enough to move them into position.

Solvent solutions:

Microscale Industries' "Micro Sol" 1 oz clear plastic bottle with RED lettering.

Solvaset Solvaset is an extremely strong decale solvent solution. You quickly and delicately brush it over the decal, and then DON'T TOUCH IT! It will turn the decal into a crinkly jelly, which will cause you to panic, but it will flatten out and look perfect afterwards.

I use an enamel gloss-coat on my models, and some people even use Future floor polish. Once the model has dried 48 hours and has a glossy sheen, make sure the surface is clean of lint and fingerprints. Windex is good for this. Holding the decal with tweezers, dip the decal in warm water until the backing is wet, then move to a paper towel to sit and drain excess water. GENTLY push the decal with a brush after 30-seconds to 2 minutes to see if it moves freely, being careful not to stretch or tear it. I use a paint brush to apply decal set to the surface, then slide the decal off using another soft brush dipped in the setting solution. To position the decal, use either a paintbrush or a soft sponge eyeliner applicator pad (resembles a sponge Q-tip and can be found in the cosmetics sections of stores). Use a paper towel or lint-free cloth to remove any excess water from around the decal and gently blot it into position. After it's dried for a few minutes, I touch the edge of the decal, or gentley wipe over it with a broad, extremely soft brush, with the decal solvent solution. After the solvent is applied, put the model down until the decal has settled into place and dried. If you touch it while the solvent is still active, you WILL destroy the decal.


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PostPosted: 16 Nov 2003, 22:27 
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Joined: 05 Oct 2002, 14:22
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Location: Missouri
solvaset should only be used with freakishly thick decals, just too strong. Future DOES work well(and per use is extremely inexpensive) but I would only use it as the overcoat after the decals, and yeah you CAN airbrush Future.

"We sleep safely in our beds because rough men stand ready in the night to visit violence on those who would harm us". George Orwell

Fighting For Justice With Brains Of Steel !
<img src="http://www.fas.org/man/dod-101/sys/ac/atengun2X.GIF" border=0>

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